Whilst flying out the not-so-successful expedition to Papua in 2011, our plane stopped off en route to re-fuel. We had no idea where we were, and we popped into the airport for a quick Nasi Goreng and to find out. Discovering we were in Sulawesi set my brain into gear. I have the pleasure of organising the biennial selection weekend for the British Universities Kayaking Expeditons, and as part of this event, each applicant has to research a destination for the final team to select from. One of the shortlisted expeditions for 2011 was Sulawesi. I bought a map and spent the rest of the flight tracing blue lines.
Incredible gorges with jungle dripping down the walls
Incredible terraced paddy fields on the drive to the rafting run
Since getting back home I started making plans to return. In June 2012 I returned with my new wife on a scouting mission, that I cunningly told her was a stop on our honeymoon. Fortunately she took this in good spirit and we did a day of boating with a local rafting operator aswell as the more usual touristy honeymoon stuff.
With contacts made and more lines sketched out on Google Earth, I was now raring to go. Chris (who led the Papua trip) was keen to join me, but could only make it for just over 2 weeks. I booked for just over 3 weeks and told myself I’d do some scouting and touristing whilst waiting.
Buffalo market in Rantepao – the whole economy seems to rotate around these things!
Torajean culture is fascinating, they place great importance on funeral ceremonies and graves.
By day 2 I was bored of touristing, so commandeered a jeep and went exploring solo. The river was beautiful, the many iguanas hilarious (bellyflopping into the water when startled) and I was already pleased I’d decided to come back.
Torajean architecture is also pretty unique
Ubiquitous iguanas constantly surprised by our presence.
Once Chris arrived, the exploring proper started. Two multiday first descents, one first descent at rainy season levels, one flood to deal with and lots of adventure. See below for a few photos of the rivers, scenery and culture. For more info, have a look at the January ’14 issue of Canoe & Kayak UK Magazine for a full account of one of our first descents (the Mandar river).
Planning the next river in a roadside cafe (warung)
Local people on the Mandar river had never seen kayaks before – half the village turned out to see us off.
Dropping in on the Masupu
Another fun rapid on the Masupu River
Navigating the flood
Celebrating survival of the flash flood on the Mamasa river, with a boat ride across the lake to the take-out.
Huge thanks to Lynda and Ucock at Toranggo Buya, Agus at Sellatours, Nick Blackbeard, Richard McFarland for help with logistics and river information. Neither would the trip have been possible without a generous grant from the BCU Expeditions Committee.