Chile is well-known in the whitewater community as a must-visit destination for kayakers of all abilities. This reputation stems from its incredible variety of rivers, ranging from scenic grade 2 runs to mind-blowing waterfalls. In November 2024, I was lucky enough to get a taste of what Chile had to offer!
Like any kayaking trip to a new place, my mind was buzzing with ideas of what I wanted to accomplish—from dialling in my cobra flip on the Rio Palguín, where it was invented, to running stunning 20-meter waterfalls with my ReactR and perfecting my technique. However, the first challenge Matti and I faced was simply making it as far as the airport in Santiago, Chile.
After spending an extra day at the airport in Brazil due to a cancelled flight, we finally arrived in Chile late in the evening. To our surprise, the boats had also made it! We kicked off our first day bright and early with a fast lap on the Maipo—a 15km run packed with wave trains, holes, and good vibes. After that lap, I completely forgot the long and complicated journey of the previous days.
The first waterfall and river on my mind when I knew I was going to Chile was the La Leona waterfall at the end of the Rio Claro—a 70-to-75-foot drop gushing out from a tight canyon in the cliff. I knew this was usually an early-season drop, as it needs enough water to navigate the entrance rapid and allow for a clean line off the lip. With us heading out a couple of weeks later than usual—and further delayed by our travels—I started to lose hope of running this classic. Sure enough, it was too low when we arrived to scout it.
Not letting this dampen our spirits, we were still thrilled to paddle the Rio Claro, a stretch of whitewater I can only describe as something straight out of a dream!
The first section of the Claro we paddled is called “Veintidós Saltos.” As the name suggests, it features 22 waterfalls of varying sizes, winding through a tight canyon with even more waterfalls cascading in from the sides. After finishing this section, we transitioned into the lower section, “Caracol.” This part is home to one of the most unique waterfalls I’ve ever seen: Garganta. Here, erosion has sculpted the rock into a spiral slide (like a waterslide) that drops another 20 feet into the pool below.
Although my line on Garganta was good, I took a hard hit to my back, knocking the wind out of me and leaving me in significant pain for the following days. Unfortunately, this meant I had to sit out while the rest of the crew basked in the glory of the Claro.
For the next couple of days, I was feeling pretty sorry for myself and doing everything I could to loosen up my back so I could get back in my boat ASAP. Thankfully, my patience paid off. When I finally felt well enough to paddle again, rain the night before had raised the river level, making La Leona runnable!
Without hesitation, I grabbed my gear, jumped in the car, and began the process of thoroughly scouting the waterfall and entrance rapid from the bank. Once the plan was set and the safety and media crew made their way to the waterfall’s base, Dane and I climbed to the top of the committing canyon leading to the drop.
After navigating the first four rapids, we reached the crux move—a tricky section where you have to carry speed from left to right and land in a chaotic, turbulent chute of water about 15 meters before the lip of the waterfall. I watched Dane go first, nailing a clean line before disappearing over the horizon. Then it was my turn.
My entrance line wasn’t as clean as I’d hoped, but I managed to stay upright. With the crux behind me, I focused on savouring the moments leading up to the free fall. The feeling of free fall brings me a sense of calm I can’t quite describe—time slows, and I feel completely in control. This time was no different.
As I surfaced and Matti helped pull me upright, I couldn’t help but celebrate. I had successfully run a waterfall I’d been dreaming of paddling for years—a truly surreal moment!